Chemical peels are a popular skin treatment used to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, acne scars and dark spots. They can also help prevent the development of future wrinkles by removing the damaged outer layer of your skin (the epidermis) and revealing new, healthier skin underneath.
There are two main types of chemical peels: superficial and deep. Superficial peels remove only the top layer of skin, while deep peels remove more layers. Chemical peels can be performed in a doctor’s office or at home with an over-the-counter product.
Read on to learn more about What To Know About Chemical Peel Entail How Does The Chemical Peel Application Work?
What To Know About Chemical Peel Entail
Chemical peels are one of the most popular cosmetic procedures that patients avail themselves of today. Chemical peels can give your skin a healthy, “just refreshed” look, or can be aggressive, taking years off of your appearance.
Epidermal cells are anchored together in two ways. Microscopic fibers called tonofilaments run between individual cells, helping anchor them together. An extracellular surrounds each cell, acting as a sort of “glue” to further keep cells together. Over time, these cells are invisibly shed through the body’s natural means of exfoliation. Speeding up this process can instantly restore a more youthful glow to the skin and address other subtle signs of the aging process.
Whereas microdermabrasion breaks the tonofilaments through the act of physical exfoliation, chemical peels work to dissolve the “glue.” One of the most frequent questions is which procedure is better? The answer is that each works well, but neither provides a thorough exfoliation when used alone. That is why incorporating both treatments into a regimen can produce a much more satisfying result.
Skye Aesthetics blends a chemical peel with microdermabrasion. The buffered glycolic, lactic, salicylic and azelaic acids dissolve the “glue” that hold the epidermal cells together. Calming, soothing anti-irritant botanicals reduce the redness and sensitivity typically associated with either a chemical peel or microdermabrasion. A self-destructing synthetic microdermabrasion particle breaks the microscopic fibers anchoring skin cells together. We favor synthetic particles as they are fully smooth and unlikely to abrade the skin. Natural particles; salt, sugar, ground pits or shells and mineral dusts are like snowflakes. Each is unique with tiny jagged edges that can scratch up or irritate the skin. It’s a single step. Just apply it to dry or slightly damp skin, scrub and rinse. Please note that regardless of your chosen form of peel or microdermabrasion, exfoliation thins the epidermis, making it more vulnerable to sunburn. I always reccomend the use of a broad spectrum SPF 30 daily.
Are you considering an in-office chemical peel? Just like other cosmetic procedurs, there is a wide range of chemical combinations, strengths and techniques used that can make it overwhelming to decide which is best for you.
Physicians typically guide the patient to the most appropriate type and level of chemical peel to address the problem and yield a satisfying result. What’s realistic? What isn’t? What can you do for yourself? And finally, what should your doctor do that your aesthetician shouldn’t? Let’s find out.
Realistic Goals Of Chemical Peels
- Chemical peels can correct actinic (sun) damage.
- They can reduce mild scarring.
- You can experience a reduction or eradication of your wrinkles.
- Improvement of dark skin discoloration is possible.
- Chemical peels can remove excessive / stubborn blackheads.
- The peel may temporarily reduce excessive skin oils.
Unrealistic Goals Of Chemical Peels
- It cannot remove or reduce the appearance of blood vessels on the skin.
- It is impossible to truly change pore diameter. However, by removing blackheads, the pores may actually appear less pronounced after treatment.
- This is not a procedure to get rid of keloidal types of scars.
- Chemical peels are not a facelift.
- This is typically not appropriate for improving dark skin discoloration in people of color (Asians, African Americans, Caucasians of Mediterranean extraction, Hispanics, etc.)
There are a variety of different chemicals used for the purpose of rejuvenating the skin in what are called “chemical peels.” The main reason to select an active agent is based upon the desired depth of the chemical peel. If the skin concern is predominantly superficial, then a milder, less caustic ingredient is selected. If deeply placed conditions exist, then far stronger products with matching levels of potential complications may be necessary.
Chemical peeling agents that perform mild or moderate peels typically provide a safer peel that has less associated long-term side effects. These peels work on the epidermis and possibly the most superficial portion of the dermis (known as the papillary dermis).
Deeper peels go midway into the dermal layer (into the reticular dermis), almost invariably leaving a permanently lighter skin tone. Instead of being able to tan as in the past, this lighter skin often freckles instead. These deeper peels should not be undertaken lightly, and you need to make sure in advance that the peel technique will be feathered into the scalp line and performed down the neck, possibly even the decollettage, or you may find that you have a highly noticeable line demarcating your original skin tone and the new one that is on the face.
Active ingredients used alone or in combination for mild to moderate strength chemical peels
- Glycolic Acid(AHA)
- Salicylic Acid (BHA)
- Lactic Acid
- Jessner’s Peel (a combination of salicyclic acid, resorcinol and lactic acid mixed in ethanol)
- Resorcinol
- TCA (Trichloracetic Acid)
Active ingredients used in deep chemical peels
- Baker’s Phenol
What do chemical peels do?The outer portion of the skin (epidermis) is composed of multiple layers of epidermal cells. These cells provide a barrier against the environment, protecting deeper, more delicate tissues, maintain an even internal temperature and also prevent against dehydration.
THE FOUR LEVELS OF PEELING
The ingredient and concentration obviously play a very big role in determining the ultimate depth of the chemical peel. However, other variables can make a difference such as whether a pre-peel de-fatting prep was performed, the amount of chemical applied, and the length of time the chemical was allowed to stay on the skin.
Another important factor is which area will be treated. The variations in skin thickness can affect the ultimate peel outcome. For instance, the face usually heals far more rapidly and typically experiences far fewer complications (such as discoloration, scar formation and infection) than areas such as the backs of the hands or neck. And regardless of what type or depth of peel used, exfoliation always increases one’s sun sensitivity. Always wear a broad spectrum SPF 30 when using any type of chemical or physical exfoliation.
Very Superficial:
This really isn’t a true peel, more of an exfoliation. The most superficial layers of the stratum corneum (at the top of the epidermis) is removed or thinned during exfoliation. Most chemical peels have a preoperative regimen of using exfoliating agents such as Renova, Tazorac or a strong glycolic acid cream for 2-4 weeks prior to the actual procedure. This helps the chemical peeling agents penetrate more deeply and evenly. The use of these exfoliants also has the obvious benefit of smoothing out thickened rough areas, helping self tanners go on more evenly and helping other skin rejuvenation products reach deeper tissues. Additionally, there has been good evidence that vitamin A exfoliants can help stimulate collagen deposition.
Superficial:
Superficial chemical peels remove skin through a portion or all of the epidermal layer. These are the “refreshing” forms of skin peels. They can also help with reducing the appearance of very mild blotchy skin discoloration, remnant acne discoloration and help cleanse the pores. This is the most common form of peel that you would find performed in a spa or by an aesthetician. And typically they would only utilize glycolic, AHA blends or BHA as the active ingredients. True peels with higher levels of glycolic acid (30% or higher) or those containing TCA, resorcinol or Jessner’s ideally would be performed in a medical setting.
Examples of chemicals used for a superficial peel include: TCA 10-20%, Resorcin, Jessner’s Solution, Salicylic Acid, Solid CO2 (also known as dry ice), AHAs (Glycolic and Lactic Acid).
Home peel kits tend to fall somewhere between very superficial and superficial. They can be excellent for helping freshen skin, eliminate blackheads, improve symptoms of oiliness and/or acne and renew texture. Home peels usually rely upon very low levels of glycolic acid (AHA) or blend with salicylic acid (BHA). Guestimate that total levels of actives will fall somewhere in the 4-12% total acid level range when looking at an average do-it-yourself products. Certainly chemical peels for home use in the 30+ range should be approached with care. Glycolic acid at 30% enters into potential medium level peel, particularly if misused.
Acid is acid, so anytime a peel regimen is used at home, it is important to follow the directions. Acids are neutralized during the routine to stop their action. This prevents inflammation, discoloration or chemical burns from occurring. Most mainstream brands have been thoroughly tested and have well proven safety records. But “rogue” peels without any major brand behind them may be suspect. Skye Aesthetics has periodically received frantic consumer calls about problems experienced with “no-name” chemical peels purchased online or through an infomercial. So it always boils down to buyer beware and use with care.
While fun to try, we have personally found that using a multi-step system doesn’t fit in with our hectic lifestyle. Between the kids, the job, the house and the husband, somehow there is just no time for me. Add in the fact that a chemical peel does not provide a thorough exfoliation, and our medical inclination is to combine both chemical peel with microdermabrasion.
Medium:
Here’s our personal cut off point that distinguishes medically performed peels from those offered in a spa, by an aesthetician or facialist. A medium strength chemical peel allows the acid to penetrate through the epidermis, down into the upper most portion of the dermis known as the papillary dermis. A medium strength peel will be far more likely to be associated with complications, both temporary and permanent.
In addition to the pre-peel use of exfoliants, the use of a skin bleaching agent, such as 4% hydroquinone, and a broad-spectrum sunscreen a month prior to the procedure, may be added for more aggressive forms of these peels, or for patients who already suffer from some form of skin discoloration. Inflammation from this level peel may temporarily produce an increase in skin tone. Medium peels are typically not appropriate for people with darker skin tones or of ethnic background, again due to the risk of irregular pigmentation following the procedure.
Dealing with infection preventatively is key here. For non-buffered glycolic acid and more commonly TCA peels, the use of antiviral medication (herpes cold sore prevention) started before the peel is performed is very helpful. The use of antibiotics is sometimes also used. It is absolutely CRUCIAL that you not pick at the peeling skin during the healing phase. This is a sure way to end up with an infection and long lasting problems such as scarring or skin discoloration.
Buffered glycolic acid chemical peels that range from 70-99% do not cause the type of significant noticeable peeling that you can see with TCA peels such as AccuPeel. However, a series of 6-12 buffered glycolic acid peels compared to usually 1 of the AccuPeel is typically performed. Skin sensitivity, degree of skin concerns, time down, and cost will determine which form of peel should be chosen.
A variety of acid compounds can be used for a medium peel: Glycolic Acid 70%+ (non-buffered), TCA 35-70%, combination peels such as solid CO2, (also called dry ice), followed by medium strength TCA, and glycolic acid followed by TCA.
Deep:
This peel goes through the epidermis, papillary dermis and into the deeper portion of the dermis known as the reticular dermis. These peels are not a simple procedure. Absorption of the active ingredient, phenol, has been known to cause cardiac arrest and even death. Patients who undergo phenol peels should be placed under general anesthesia and on full cardiac and pulmonary monitoring.
A phenol peel unquestionably requires a medical setting where emergency back-up is available should anything go wrong. An anesthesiologist should be present, and preferably have this procedure done in a surgical setting, not just a room adjacent to the doctor’s office. The down time from this procedure is obviously the longest, 2-3 weeks is generally required before you want to be seen in public. Due to the depth of the peel leaving deeper tissue exposed, there is an increase in photosensitivity to the sun.
Examples of ingredients used in deep peels include: Baker’s phenol alone or under occlusion by tape. The tape drives the phenol deeper into the skin.
How Does The Chemical Peel Application Work?
Before your chemical peel day-to-day process starts, you’ll need to have your provider apply the treatment. People often have many concerns about what it will feel like to get a peel done and if it’ll hurt. We recommend scheduling a consultation before having a chemical peel to discuss what to expect and answer any questions you may have.
When you arrive at the clinic, the first step is to wash your face. Washing your face removes any layers of dead skin cells, makeup and other debris (like skin care products) that may still be sitting on your skin. The result is a clear surface, ready to accept the peel without any barriers in its way.
(Different skin care practices can perform different depths of chemical peels, and the “deeper” the peel, the more discomfort you are likely to feel.) Skin Pharm’s medium-depth chemical peel isn’t uncomfortable, though — most people describe the sensation as “tingling,” “warm” or “tight.” To help with any potential stinging during the treatment, we provide our patients with a handheld fan, too.
Day one post-chemical peel
After your chemical peel is complete and you leave the office, what should you expect on day one?
You’ll leave the clinic with the peel solution still on your face, and you’ll notice your complexion take on a yellow hue throughout the day. (Not to worry — this means it’s working!) After a few hours, you’ll apply the retinol crème your provider sent you home with.
You might notice some redness and sensitivity as the retinol gets to work. Many people describe the feeling as similar to having a sunburn. However, the telltale peeling that comes with a chemical peel won’t start for another day or so.
WHAT TO AVOID THE DAY OF YOUR CHEMICAL PEEL—
While your skin is still healing, keep a few factors in mind. Your skin is incredibly raw and sensitive, and it needs additional protection. To protect it and maximize your results, you should avoid any strenuous exercise or activities that lead to sweating.
In addition, try to stay out of the sun as much as possible and wear sunscreen (with at least an SPF of 30) if you can’t avoid it entirely.
You’ll also want to avoid letting your skin dry out. Although applying product to raw skin can feel uncomfortable, it needs moisture to heal. Allowing your skin to dry too much can lengthen the healing process and make it more likely that your skin will scab or even scar.
Day two post-chemical peel
Day two of the chemical peel process day to day is where you’ll likely start to see your skin peel. The top layers of your skin are beginning to dehydrate and slough off, and you’ll see this more often start between the eyes and in the corners of the nose and mouth.
Although it may be tempting, resist the urge to help your skin peel manually. Wash your skin gently and follow up with a stronger moisturizer, like Recovery Lotion.
For many people, the redness they experience in the first few days is enough to keep them home from work and social events. Expect that your skin will react this way, and don’t schedule anything significant in the few days directly after your chemical peel.
If you deal with breakouts, you may experience some “purging” of any blemishes present under the surface before your peel. While this isn’t common, it is possible to start with a new retinol skin care product.
Day three and four post-chemical peel
Day three and four are when you will likely experience the worst peeling and flaking. Your skin is most likely to feel uncomfortable these days — and it’s also at its most vulnerable. Follow your provider’s skin care recommendations carefully, as they are designed to help protect your skin and assist it with its natural healing process.
Now, more than ever, your skin needs to be protected. You may even want to wear a sun protective hat along with your sunscreen to make sure your skin stays safe and doesn’t burn. Doing that keeps your healing process moving forward.
Don’t be surprised if you notice more peeling in certain areas of your face than in others. This is normal and doesn’t indicate any problem with your skin’s healing process.
Day seven post-chemical peel
A week after your chemical peel is performed, you’ll finally be able to start seeing your results. This is where all of the flaking, peeling and redness starts to pay off. (Professionals consider the results of a chemical peel permanent, so enjoy that new skin you’re starting to see!)
Depending on how well or quickly your skin is healing, you can usually return to your normal skincare routine a week or so after your chemical peel.
Make sure that your skin is completely done peeling before using any harsher or more abrasive skin care products, as the skin may still be sensitive. When your skin stops feeling as tight and dry, you should be ok to switch back.
Our post-chemical peel skin care routine is excellent for helping your skin to heal, but it isn’t meant for long-term use for most of our patients. Unless you have dry, sensitive skin, prolonged use can lead to breakouts or oily-looking skin.
One week post-chemical peel (and beyond!)
Your skin is far less flaky and sensitive by this point in your chemical peel journey. However, because your skin has gone through a process meant to safely “damage” your skin so that it looks better than ever, there may still be some noticeable healing going on.
More sensitive areas of your skin may start to crust and scab or even have a noticeable color change. Usually, this process is complete around two weeks after your chemical peel. However, some redness may persist for months, especially in hotter weather or when you exercise.
How soon can I get another chemical peel?
Once you start to see results from your chemical peel, you’ll probably be ready to book your next appointment! However, you need to make sure to give your skin enough time to heal before you subject it to other chemical peels. If you have another peel too soon, you risk damaging your skin instead of helping it look its best.
We recommend waiting at least four to six weeks between treatments. On average, most of our patients need between four and six treatments total for optimal results.
To wrap things up…
Knowing the chemical peel process day to day can help you understand what to expect if you decide to perform this game-changing cosmetic treatment. While it may take slightly longer to heal than other cosmetic treatments, the results are permanent and often even more impressive than people expect!
Light chemical peel recovery time
For those who desire an individualized, effective treatment for skin issues, at Bentley Skincare and Wellness in Springfield, MO, we offer customized chemical peels targeted to your particular skincare need. So, how long does it take to recover from a chemical peel? There are a whole host of skincare issues that people commonly deal with, so the peel that is recommended for you will be based on your specific skin type.
Your skin may be dry, oily, normal, or sensitive. You may struggle with issues such as scarring, hyperpigmentation, sun damage, or aging skin. Whatever your issue, there is a peel that will work for you, and your recovery time will depend on the type of peel you choose. No matter the regimen that is prescribed, however, your treatment will consist of a pre-peel plan, the peel itself, and a post-treatment plan to promote your skin’s healthy recovery.
What Is a Chemical Peel?
In simple terms, a chemical peel consists of applying a peeling agent to your skin. Although the peeling agent may be left on for as few as three to five minutes or as long as up to an hour, depending on the type of peel, it encourages your skin to shed its outer layer over a period of days.
As a result, new skin growth is promoted over a period of days. The skin will now appear more even in texture, and improvements in pigmentation, scarring, fine lines, and wrinkles will be seen. Skin impurities will be drawn out, and overall, you will notice a brighter, fresher, more rejuvenated appearance.
Types of Peels
Since everyone’s skin is different, the type of peel that is recommended for you will vary depending on your skin type and any issues you may be having. There are several types of peels available, some of which contain Jessner’s solution, trichloroacetic acid (TCA), or retinol.
There are also peel alternatives, or masks, that help facilitate the peeling and rejuvenation process as well. While most peels are applied to the face, they can also be used to promote better skin texture on the back, chest, neck, shoulders, and upper arms.
Peels Containing Jessner’s Solution
Formulated decades ago by German-American dermatologist Dr. Max Jessner, peels containing Jessner’s solution have been shown to improve the appearance of all skin types. Peels with Jessner’s solution can reduce dark patches, age spots, scarring, and discoloration as they promote a bright, even skin tone. Overall, the skin will appear refreshed and revitalized.
If your skin is oily or sensitive, a PCA Peel® (Physicians Care Alliance) that is hydroquinone-free may be ideal for you. It has been found to even skin tone while improving skin that is prone to breakouts. For those patients with normal skin, a PCA Peel® with hydroquinone will brighten and rejuvenate skin while removing discoloration.
If your skin is in need of more potent treatment, a PCA Peel® with hydroquinone and resorcinol can improve the skin’s appearance, as it reduces damage due to the sun or scarring due to acne.
Peels Containing TCA
Many peels nowadays contain TCA. Designed for all skin types, including highly sensitive skin, Sensi Peel® is a gentle treatment that promotes improved skin texture and a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles. For those with mature skin, Ultra Peel® I will also provide brighter, more youthful-looking skin as it minimized lines and wrinkles.
If your skin is rather resilient, the Ultra Peel Forte® may be ideal for you. This potent product brightens and restores while it promotes a younger-looking appearance. Finally, the Smoothing Body Peel® is designed to improve the texture and tone of the thicker skin of your body.
Retinoid Treatments
There are two types of treatments available that contain retinol. The 4% Pure Retinol Peel revitalizes skin as it smooths and brightens by increasing new cell growth.
The Advanced Treatment Booster is designed to promote an increase in exfoliation, all the while soothing and reducing redness in the skin of all types. This particular peel will also restore keratinization, which helps protect skin and acts as a barrier.
Peel Alternatives/Masks
There are several alternative peels or masks from which to choose, and each targets a different skin type. For patients with dry skin, the Therapeutic Oat Milk Mask Treatment is designed to hydrate and soothe dull, dry skin. If your skin tends to stay in the normal range, the Therapeutic Papaya Mask can brighten skin tone, rejuvenate, and refresh.
In addition, several treatments are available for oily skin, all of which detoxify, purify, and calm the skin. The Detox Gel Deep Pore Treatment, the Therapeutic Salicylic Acid Mask, and the Therapeutic Charcoal Mask are all offered by our office.
Before the Peel
Eligibility
Prior to undergoing any sort of chemical treatment, it is imperative that our doctors determine if the peel is right for you. In order to determine eligibility, we need to make sure that you are not breastfeeding or pregnant and have no skin conditions such as psoriasis, eczema, or rosacea.
In addition, if you have an outdoor job, a peel might not be appropriate for you, just as those with a history of poor wound healing should probably not undergo such treatment. Finally, if you are receiving treatment for acne, you should avoid a peel while undergoing this treatment.
A Pre-Peel Plan
Once we have taken your medical history and determined that a peel is appropriate for you, we will provide you with a skincare regimen to follow for approximately two to four weeks prior to your peel. This is designed to make your peel more effective.
You may be asked to use retinol or a product containing Retin-A in order to stimulate cell turnover and increase the peel’s ability to penetrate into the skin. Typically, this pre-peel care would stop at least several days before your treatment. Sometimes, no preparation is necessary prior to having a peel: it depends upon the needs of your skin and the peel.
The Peel
After you arrive for your designated appointment, our staff will begin by thoroughly cleaning your skin in order to remove any oil or products that may interfere with the chemicals in the peel. If your face is being treated, your eyes may be covered with gauze or goggles to protect your eyes, and your hair may be pulled back from your face.
Depending on the type of peel that has been recommended for you, our skin care specialist will then apply the peel with gauze, a brush, or a cotton-tipped applicator. At this time, your skin will look frosted and white, and you may notice a tightness or a tingling sensation.
Many peels are removed within three to five minutes after application, and cool compresses or lotion may be applied to help soothe the skin. Other peels are self-neutralizing and may remain on the skin for up to an hour. Because each peel varies, our team will review the specifics of your peel prior to performing any sort of treatment.
How Long Does It Take to Recover From a Chemical Peel?
The First Day
For the first 24 hours or so after your chemical peel, you will notice that your skin may appear red. This is typical; however, moisturizer can be liberally applied in order to help soothe your skin. Usually, if you have had a medium peel, the shedding begins after those first 24 hours.
The Days After
Your skin will soon begin to appear dry and flaky, but it is best to let this procedure occur naturally and not pick or peel the skin before it is ready to be shed. Peeling skin before it is ready to come off can be counter-productive. After three to four days, most of the peeling should be complete, but it may take anywhere from five to seven days before your fresh, new skin has developed.
Within seven to fourteen days, your skin should be completely healed. If you work in an office or indoor setting, you should require no time off from work after your peel. If you are pleased with the results of your peel, you may even be able to reschedule another one in three to nine months, depending on your skincare condition and goals for your skin.
Peel Aftercare
Moisturize
In order to promote better healing and improve your comfort following a chemical peel, there are several steps that you can take. Immediately after your peel, you may find that ice packs or cool air provide you with a cooler, more comfortable feeling. It is, however, important that you not allow your skin to dry out.
To that end, frequent use of a moisturizer is imperative, and you may find yourself moisturizing ten to twenty times per day. This will allow your skin to continue to peel but will reduce the more obvious flaking that occurs. A moisturizing cleanser may also be recommended by your specialist as well. As previously mentioned, you should also restrict yourself from picking, pulling, or peeling your shedding skin.
Avoid Sun and Heat
Of course, avoiding sun exposure is critical. You should completely avoid the damaging effects of the sun until your skin is entirely healed, and even once it has healed, you should wear a sunscreen at all times in order to protect the new layer of skin.
Extremely hot showers or excessive sweating may also rush the peeling process along too quickly and should be avoided. Since your new skin will be fresh and new, it is important to baby it, especially in the early going.
A Quality Complexion
Since there are so many skincare products and treatments available today, it is important to begin with a visit to the dermatologist to determine the treatment that is best for you. Because skin types will vary, just as skincare issues differ from person to person, only a qualified professional can assess your skin and determine the best plan for your skin.
Remember that even among chemical peels, there are a wide variety of treatment options. Whether you have dry, oily, sensitive, or normal skin, there is a peel available to treat your skin, and within a matter of days, your skin will be on the path to improvement. Once our dermatologists have met with you, examined your skin, and determined your skincare needs, we can then proceed with the peel that is just right for yo