What To Know About Chemical Peel For Black Skin ?Chemical peels are a treatment that can help with everything from acne to wrinkles. But not all chemical peels are created equal, and you’ll want to know what to expect before you get started. A chemical peel is a way to get rid of dead skin cells and stimulate new growth using chemicals that help slough off the outer layer of your skin. The process leaves you feeling smoother and fresher—and sometimes even more even-looking.
The best part? Chemical peels are fairly non-invasive and easy to administer, so you can reap the benefits without having to go under the knife or spend a ton of money on treatments. But there’s more than one type of chemical peel out there—and some are better suited for black skin than others. So what do you need to know?
A chemical peel is a process that improves the condition of your skin by causing controlled damage to the top layer of skin cells. These damaged skin cells are naturally shed, revealing new and healthy ones beneath. Chemical peels have been used for years and are safe. However, as with any treatment there are risks that you should be aware of before undergoing one. Read on to learn more Chemical Peel For Dark Spots/Homemade Chemical Peel For Black Skin.
What To Know About Chemical Peel For Black Skin
Let’s face it: adult acne (and residual hyperpigmentation) can be a pain in the a**.
For women of color (WOC), the trials and tribulations of suffering from skin conditions are compounded by being blessed with melanin. Of course, we love the main ingredient in #BlackGirlMagic — but the same element that makes us easy, breezy, beautiful Black girls is also the main culprit in one of the toughest aspects of our complexion: uneven skin tone.
In trying to achieve a skin glow up that would rival that of your favorite celeb, we set out to get the low down on some dermatological procedures that have long mystified us. For instance, the chemical peel. Some love it, some have tried it once and declared “never again.”
As we transition into winter weather, and the needs of our skin change, we asked experts: Chemical peels, are they friend or foe? Find out more below.
Before we get into it, let’s back up. If you’re wondering just what a peel actually is, we’ve got you covered. The sometimes elusive procedure can be used to counter a multitude of skin issues, including wrinkles, acne (and subsequent acne scarring), and hyperpigmentation/uneven skin tones.
A chemical solution is administered by a dermatologist to accelerate the process of exfoliation. But do not equate a chemical peel with the St. Ives apricot scrub that you can cop at your local pharmacy, folks! Though both exfoliants, the two treatments are not one and the same.
Among the three dermatologists we spoke to, one thing is for certain: not all peels are created equal! There are levels to this sh*t (#FreeMeek). Different types of chemical peels range both in levels of intensity and the issues they seek to target.
If you’re interested in receiving a chemical peel, it’s important to first discuss with your doctor your skin concerns and the extent to which your skin is sensitive. Chemical peels are not the type of procedures you get on a whim without proper research — unless you’re down to peel like an onion for a month. No, seriously — some peels that combat wrinkles can leave you molting like a snake for some 20 days. [Editor’s Note: Professional-grade peels should never be done at home. Here is a cautionary tale on that matter, via YouTube.]
There are three main categories of peels: superficial/mild, medium, and deep. Consult a certified skin expert about which one is right for you — and if it’s your first peel, it’s definitely best to err on the side of caution.
Acclaimed aesthetician Mamie MacDonald, whose clientele list includes the likes of Diddy, Jay Z, Angela Bassett, Iman, and Ebonee Davis, broke it down for us:
• The “Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) Peel” is a superficial/mild peel and is mild enough to apply to sensitive skin. It exfoliates the dead skin cells, prompting the growth of new skin cells with no down time. This peel is suitable for treating sun damaged skin, hyperpigmentation and oily skin types. With this type of peel several treatments may be done over a period of time to achieve the desired results. Skin looks clearer, cleaner and healthy. Expect very little peeling with AHA and no real down time. After a peel the skin can be a little dry and sensitive, so we suggest no cardio or makeup for a day (or two).
• A “Medium Peel” is performed by a derm or aesthetican. This level of peel is generally performed with a solution of trichloroacetic acid (TCA) or a higher percentage of glycolic acid. It is also applied to the skin with a cotton or Q tip to deeply penetrate the deeper skin layers to treat acne scars, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. The peeling process may take anywhere from 7 to 14 days.
• A “Deep Peel” is performed by a derm using phenol which is the strongest chemical solution. A very high concentration of TCA can also be considered a deep peel. This deep peel level improves damaged skin cells, deep lines, freckles and scarring. This peel can take up to 21 days to peel off and heal. Absolutely no sun for six months and sunscreen daily (like you should be doing anyways!)
(Photo: Sumayah Jamal MD)
Though there isn’t one ideal skin type that should receive peels, the above information in conjunction with your concerns can help deem which would be most advantageous to you.
However, proceed with caution: while chemical peels are safe for all skin tones, receiving one that doesn’t match your skin’s needs could actually leave you with more damage than you began with!
“You can perform many (but not all) superficial peels safely on all skin tones. Medium and deep peels may cause severe hyperpigmentation and scarring in darker skin tones,” shares Dr. Sumayah Jamal. “Many times a physician who specializes in skin of color will address that on their practice websites. Also, referrals from friends and family are very helpful in identifying dermatologists who specialize in skin of color.”
We’ve taken extenuating measures to caution folks against receiving peels too strong — hey, we’ve seen some stuff — but the mild level of peel may not even cause you to shed on at all (or not that you could see with the naked eye, anyway).
According to Dr. Anna Karp, it may take two to four treatments prior to seeing results, and treatments may be administered every two to four weeks. “Some peels are working at a microscopic level and you will see minimal shedding, but it does not mean it is not working,” she explains.
With all that in mind, the gentlest type of peel is available to try in the comfort of your own home. Our editors recommend Dr. Gross’s Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel. The $16 pack, available at Sephora, affords you five at-home treatments — the recomended amount to see if it works for you (and if its worth future investments).
All three doctors agree: peels can be for everybody, it’s just a matter of finding what works best for you. Consult your doctor prior to experimenting with peels to avoid a worst-case scenario. Happy peeling!
Chemical Peel For Dark Spots
The superficial peels most frequently used to lighten dark spots are alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic and lactic acid), beta hydroxy acids (salicylic acid) and trichloroacetic acid (TCA). Glycolic acid (GA) is the most common alpha-hydroxy acid peel and is also known as a fruit peel.
Skin hyperpigmentation refers to several conditions in which areas of the skin become darker than the surrounding areas. Although topical lighteners form the foundation of skin hyperpigmentation treatment, chemical facial peels can bring improved cosmetic outcomes as a complementary and maintenance therapy.
What Are Chemical Facial Peels And How Do They Lighten Dark Spots?
A chemical peel is a technique that utilizes a chemical solution to ‘peel off’ the topmost layer of skin, removing discolorations and promoting new skin growth. Peels can be used to improve the appearance of acne scars, melasma, sun-damaged skin, wrinkles, and several other conditions. They can also be used to lighten dark spots.
Chemical peels for lightening dark spots use chemical agents that enable the removal of the skin pigment melanin. The type of peel, its concentration, the number of coats, and the duration of application are the main factors that influence the effectiveness of treatment. These same factors affect the likelihood of developing adverse effects, such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Individuals who have dark skin are at a higher risk of developing PIH and should consult with their dermatologist to determine if a chemical peel is right for them.
The most effective treatments sequence peels with a topical prescription creams. Priming the skin with a topical cream for at least four weeks prior to peeling is an essential part of treatment. The priming ensures uniform penetration of the peel and also reduces the risk of PIH.
What Are The Types Of Chemical Peels?
There are three types of chemical peels. All peels should be combined with topical dark spot treatments to improve efficacy. These topical treatments, also known as bleaching creams contain a combination of ingredients that are applied to the skin to either remove dark patches, such as melasma, or reduce the amount of skin pigment.
Superficial peels
Superficial peels penetrate only the outermost layer of the skin to remove pigment. Superficial peels provide improvement with the least risk of complications. This is because stronger and deeper peeling agents cause more inflammation, which has the potential to worsen pigmentation.
Superficial peels generally take a week or more to heal.
Medium depth peels
Medium depth peels remove the outer and middle layers of the skin to improve the appearance of age spots, skin discoloration, and more. Medium depth peels can be repeated between three and nine months to maintain a clear complexion.
Medium depth peels generally take one to two weeks to heal.
Deep peels
Deep peels remove damaged skin cells in the lower dermal layer of the skin to improve the appearance of sun damage, age spots, and more. These peels require both pretreatment and several weeks’ recovery time. However, the effects of deep peels may last as long as ten years.
Deep peels generally take two to three weeks to heal.
What Are The Ingredients In Chemical Peels For Lightening Dark Spots?
The superficial peels most frequently used to lighten dark spots are alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic and lactic acid), beta hydroxy acids (salicylic acid) and trichloroacetic acid (TCA).
- Glycolic acid (GA) is the most common alpha-hydroxy acid peel and is also known as a fruit peel. It is simple, inexpensive, and has no downtime. GA peels have anti-inflammatory, keratolytic, and antioxidant effects. For melasma, it is used in concentrations of 30-70%. Sessions are conducted 2-3 weeks apart for a total series of 4-6 treatments.
- Lactic acid (LA), which is derived from milk, works by decreasing skin cell cohesion. This type of peel is beneficial for lightening dark spots when used at 92% strength with double coats that are applied for 10 minutes every 3 weeks.
- Salicylic acid (SA) has been used to treat various skin disorders for more than 2,000 years. The ability of salicylic acid to exfoliate the stratum corneum (the top layer of skin) makes it a good agent for peeling. Peels in 20-30% strength help eliminate superficial skin pigment. It causes the outermost layer of skin to shed and leaves a smooth post-peel texture. SA has an intrinsic ability to reduce inflammation, making it an especially useful agent for lightening dark spots, as it reduces the chance of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
- Trichloracetic acid (TCA) is a relative of vinegar and works on the principle of causticity (burning). The higher the concentration, the deeper the penetration, and the more skin cells that will be damaged and removed. At the lower strength of 15%, it can be used as a superficial peel. Sessions are conducted monthly, usually about four in total.
What do chemical peels do?
Fun fact: Chemical peels do involve chemicals, but they don’t really involve peeling of skin. Instead, chemical peels consist of a solution that deeply exfoliates the outer layer of your skin. This causes the dead skin cells on your top layer of skin to rapidly shed, revealing the new, smooth layer underneath. On top of the exfoliation, chemical peels induce new collagen production, an important protein that makes up about 75% of your skin and keeps it looking young, tight, and fresh.
How do chemical peels work for acne scars?
Chemical peels reduce the appearance of acne scars by reducing overall hyperpigmentation, or areas of your skin with deeper or darker color. Chemical peels also smooth the outer surface of your skin, reducing any bumpy textures.
The exact mechanism of a chemical peel on your acne scars depends on the severity of your scarring, as well as the type of scarring. There are two types of acne scars: atrophic and hypertrophic. Atrophic acne scars are indented or depressed, while hypertrophic acne scars are raised.
Chemical peels are better at treating atrophic scars than hypertrophic scars, though a professionally administered series of chemical peels can potentially eliminate both types. Hyperpigmentation, while technically not a form of scarring, is the easiest form of post-acne skin trauma to treat with chemical peels.
What to expect during and after a chemical peel
At Rochester Laser Center, our aestheticians use SkinCeuticals chemical peels, which they customize based on your particular skin situation. Depending on the severity of your acne scars, your Rochester Laser Center aesthetician may recommend a light or mild chemical peel. Deep chemical peels generally aren’t recommended for acne scars.
At your appointment, you lie comfortably in a beauty chair while your aesthetician performs the chemical peel. Your aesthetician cleans your face and protects your eyes and hair. Then, the chemical peel solution is brushed onto your face. You may experience a tingling sensation and coldness. If your peel is more intense, you may feel a slight burning sensation, kind of like the way Icy Hot® feels when you apply it to sore muscles.
What happens after your chemical peel depends on the type of peel you received, plus your skin’s individual tolerance to it. Some patients experience redness and sensitivity, while others feel just fine. You may need a few days of downtime where you don’t get any direct sun exposure and you limit exercise. Don’t worry: Your aesthetician makes sure you leave the clinic feeling confident about how to take care of your skin after a chemical peel.
Homemade Chemical Peel For Black Skin
Homemade Chemical Peel
Not too long ago I wrote an article on how to get and keep clear skin. I mentioned natural fruit acids that act as a natural, homemade chemical peel, sloughing off old dead skin to reveal the newer looking skin underneath. Today I’ll go into detail about what chemical peels are and how they benefit your skin. Then I’ll show you how to make your own.
There are a few types of chemical peels. They are applied to your skin, most often on the face, and then over then next few days the skin will start to pull away or “peel.” It is most often used on scarred skin, such as acne scars or burns. Over time, the new skin has less and less of the scarred material and new skin is allowed to come to the surface.
Most salons or spas use glycolic acid in a form that is much stronger than just plain fruit juice. Sometimes dry ice is used in place of glycolic acid as it will yield the same results.
Why do a homemade chemical peel?
A homemade, natural chemical peel helps you control the ingredients and avoid all the toxic elements of the store-bought versions.
Almost all of us have some scarring of some sort on our bodies. I have a scar on the inside of my arm from some barbed wire after falling off of a cow. (They do NOT like to be saddled, by the way!) I have another on my knee from rock climbing near the river. These aren’t large and they don’t bother my self esteem at all. However, scars like burns, perhaps on the neck or arms, or severe acne scars on the face can lead to low self esteem and even send people into hiding. This is where chemical peels can greatly benefit you.
I like to do a chemical peel once a month just to be sure there is nothing left behind on my skin after my normal beauty routine.
Natural Homemade Chemical Peel
You can go very mild with this recipe or go for a deeper peel with stronger acids. The variations are listed after the recipe.
Ingredients
1 small cucumber, seeded and pureed (about 1 cup)
1 package or 1 Tbsp. unflavored gelatin (find it here)
a few drops natural liquid meat tenderizer (find it here) OR ¼ tsp. powdered meat tenderizer (like this)
a dash of ground cinnamon (adding too much may irritate skin)
water if necessary
Process
Place the cucumber inside a medium sized bowl and sprinkle with the gelatin. Add a little water if it doesn’t start to dissolve.
Sprinkle the meat tenderizer and cinnamon over the cucumber mixture and stir well to combine. The gelatin will dissolve and become pasty. Add water if you need to make it spreadable.
Spread this over your face and allow it to dry, 15-20 minutes.
When completely dry, start at the jaw line and slowly peel from your face. Rinse off any residue and follow with moisturizer if you wish.
Note: You can do this once a month, but no more often as it may irritate skin.
Variations
Cucumber is the most mild, but you can substitute other ingredients for this.
Papaya and pineapple contain papain and bromelain, both of which are used in tenderizing meats. This is why I add a small amount of meat tenderizer to the recipe. You can omit the meat tenderizer and use pureed fruit instead.
Pumpkin has a great deal of fruit acids. You can steam some fresh pumpkin or use it from the can. (Be sure it’s plain pumpkin and not pie mix.)
Avocados are high in acid too, and have added moisturizers.
Tomatoes are another good choice. The newer hybrid tomatoes are lower in acid, but are still great for this type of application. Use fresh puree or juice.
Sugar can work well too. Sugar cane is high in acid and makes a great chemical peel. Use the same amount as you would puree or juice.
Want to go even milder? Used a pureed apple. They are mildly acidic.
Want to go deeper? Try lemon or lime juice. The possibilities are endless as long as there is some acid to the fruit or vegetable you use.
Do you have a problem with acne? Crush an aspirin or two and add this to the mixture. The salicylic acid is one of the only things that dissolves blackheads. The cinnamon in the recipe should help to keep new blackheads from forming.
Deep peel
During a deep chemical peel, you will be sedated. The doctor will use a cotton-tipped applicator to apply phenol to your skin. This will turn your skin white or gray. The procedure will be done in 15-minute portions, to limit the skin exposure to the acid.
How do you prepare for a chemical peel?
Before your procedure, you’ll first have a consultation with the skin care specialist. During this visit, they’ll help you determine what the best treatment option is for you. They’ll let you know the details about the specific peel you’ll be getting, and they’ll ask about anything that could interfere with the peel. This may include whether you’ve taken acne medication, and information about whether or not you scar easily.
Before a chemical peel, you must:
- not use any type of retinol or retin-A topical medication for at least 48 hours
- inform your skin care specialist about any medications you take
- not have been on Accutane for at least six months
Your doctor may also recommend that you:
- take an antiviral medication if you have a history of fever blisters or cold sores to prevent a breakout around the mouth
- use special lotions to improve treatment, like glycolic acid lotion
- use a retinoid cream to prevent skin darkening
- stop waxing, epilating, or using depilatory hair removal products the week before the peel. You should also avoid hair bleaching.
- stop using facial scrubs and exfoliants the week before the peel.
- arrange for a ride home, especially for medium or deep chemical peels, which will require you to be sedated.
If your doctor prescribes a painkiller or sedative, take it according to their instructions; you’ll likely have to take it before you come to the office.
What are the risks and possible side effects of a chemical peel?
Common side effects are temporary, and include redness, dryness, stinging or burning, and slight swelling. With deep peels, you may permanently lose the ability to tan.
Chemical peels can, however, have more serious risks and dangerous side effects that can be permanent. These include:
- Darkening or lightening of the skin color. These can be more common in people with darker skin.
- Scarring. This can be permanent.
- Infections. People with herpes simplex may experience flares following a treatment. Very rarely, chemical peels can cause fungal or bacterial infections.
- Heart, liver, or kidney damage. The phenol used in deep peels can actually damage the heart muscle, kidneys, and liver, and cause irregular heartbeats.
What to expect after
Recovery time varies depending on which chemical peel you received.
Light chemical peels
Recovery time is about four to seven days. Your skin may temporarily be lighter or darker.
Medium chemical peels
Your skin will recover about five to seven days after a medium chemical peel, though you may have redness that persists for months. Your skin will initially swell, and then form crusts and brown blotches before revealing new skin.
Deep chemical peels
Deep chemical peels will cause severe swelling and redness, with burning or throbbing sensations. It’s common for the eyelids to swell shut. It will take about two weeks for the new skin to develop, though white spots or cysts may last several weeks. It’s common for redness to last for several months.
During recovery, follow your doctor’s postop instructions faithfully. They’ll give you specific instructions for how often to wash your face and moisturize, and which products you should use to do so. Try to stay out of the sun until your skin has healed, and avoid using makeup or other cosmetics until your doctor gives you the go-ahead. You can use ice packs for 20 minutes at a time, or a cool fan, to help relieve discomfort at home.