What To Know About Chemical Peel Jessner

Chemical peels are one of the most popular non-invasive cosmetic treatments available. They remove the uppermost layer of skin and help to improve your skin’s overall appearance. The peel type you choose will depend on what you want to achieve, as well as your skin type and history. There are three main types of chemical peels: glycolic, salicylic and Jessner’s peels.

Glycolic Peels Glycolic peels work by removing dead skin cells, which can help reduce fine lines and blemishes. Glycolic peels are also used for acne scars and hyperpigmentation. If you have sensitive skin, a glycolic peel may be too strong for you. Salicylic Peels Salicylic acid is often used in acne products because it works by sloughing away dead skin cells and reducing inflammation in the pores. Salicylic acid can also be used to treat hyperpigmentation, wrinkles and fine lines. It should not be used if you have oily or sensitive skin because it can cause irritation or redness on those types of skin types.

Read on to learn more ABOUT What To Know About Chemical Peel Jessner, What to Expect During a Jessner Peel and Chemical Peeling Advantages And Disadvantages

What To Know About Chemical Peel Jessner

Potential Side EffectsThe CostAftercareThe Final Takeaway

Afew months ago, I experienced my first-ever chemical peel. And, despite my deep-seated fear of looking like Samantha Jones à la Sex and the City, I’d like to think my newfound glowy skin and I came out on top. However, one thing I learned throughout the process was how much one peel can vary from the next depending on skin type, skin goals, and the specific acids used. Almost immediately, my initial assumption that chemical peels were one-size-fits-all (and likely bound for tragedy) was completely debunked—and I became a believer.

The experience also piqued my interest and inspired me to learn more about the different types of peels and the associated process and science involved. Thus, I was led to the mythical Jessner peel. Okay, it’s not exactly mythical, but it’s commonly searched for (think a 3600-and-growing search volume on Google), and time-honored—the Jessner peel itself has been around for over 100 years. It’s named for Dr. Max Jessner, the man who invented the solution used in the treatment.

Yet, its true magic seems murky and vague upon research. So, with the help of holistic esthetician Biba de Sousa, and dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman, we decoded the Jessner peel once and for all.

MEET THE EXPERT

• Dendy Engelman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. She is also a member of Byrdie’s Review Board.
• Biba de Sousa is a celebrity esthetician and founder of the skincare line Biba. She practices out of Los Angeles, CA. She has been featured inThe Chalkboard Mag, Allure, Into The Gloss, and Vogue.

Keep reading for everything you need to know about Jessner peels.

What is a Jessner Peel?

There is so much more to the Jessner peel, and peels in general, than I ever would have guessed had you asked me months ago. According to de Sousa, “The Jessner peel (or the more commonly used modified Jessner peel) is a safe, effective way of maintaining the skin and is also very effective on body parts, too.” Engelman adds that the peel addresses acne, hyperpigmentation, signs of aging like sagging skin, wrinkles, and more.

But let’s take it a step further. First, per de Sousa, it’s important to understand that there are three different classes of peels, which fall somewhere on a scale between superficial (requiring little to no downtime) and deep (requiring weeks, maybe even months, of downtime). The Jessner peel falls somewhere in the middle.

“The Jessner solution is a commonly used medium-depth peeling agent, which means the solution only affects the upper layer of the dermis, in a controlled manner. It requires specific application rules, and the traditional peel features a mix of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids in a specific ratio—14 percent of resorcinol, salicylic, and lactic acid in an ethanol base,” says de Sousa. “The pH (potential hydrogen) of the solution is typically 1.9.”

So, what’s the strategy behind the aforementioned mix of acids? According to de Sousa, it’s very specific. First, she explains to me that salicylic acid is keratolytic and, therefore, dissolves hardened skin cells within the epidermal (aka outermost) layer of the skin, while lactic acid simultaneously adds a dose of hydration. Then, resorcinol has historically been used in the Jessner formula, thanks to its natural antiseptic properties. However, as of just recently, this is being modified.

“These days, resorcinol is being taken out of Jessner’s solution because it is a phenol derivative and raises health questions. Instead, TCA (trichloroacetic acid) is being used, which is the most popular method of medium-depth peels, called modified Jessners. Retinol and other AHAs can also be added to modified Jessners, such as mandelic, azelaic, phytic, glycolic, and the like,” says de Sousa.

“You should not receive Jessner peels if you are pregnant or are allergic to certain acids, as contains a significant dose of salicylic acid,” says Engelman. de Sousa adds that “Beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is contraindicated to pregnancy, but even beyond that, the hormonal fluctuation that happens in a female body during pregnancy can lead to serious consequences of the outcome of any chemical peel, leading to hyperpigmentation. Medically, anyone allergic to salicylic acid (this is commonly an allergy to aspirin) or resorcinol is not to use this peel.”

The Jessner Difference

As mentioned earlier, the Jessner peel is a medium-depth peel, which is what separates it from its more superficial or deep counterparts.

“Jessner solution is a leave-in solution that is self-neutralizing and takes several days to complete the peeling process. This kind of peel has to be left undisturbed (without application of water or oil) in the skin for a minimum of six to eight hours post-treatment to allow for the full benefit,” de Sousa tells us. (And don’t worry—we’ll get to said benefits in a minute).

On the other hand, de Sousa explains that more superficial peels require little to no downtime and no serious post-peel complications. Deep peels, however, which typically involve phenol or 25 percent TCA, penetrate on a much deeper level and have serious constraints where required downtime is concerned. (Think sedation during application and up to eight weeks of prep time pre-peel). Not surprisingly, deep peels aren’t a popular choice (ahem, Samantha Jones) since they can yield unpredictable results with side effects such as pain, severe peeling, and increased sensitivity to sunlight.¹

Benefits of a Jessner Peel

In the most simplistic of terms, de Sousa explains that the Jessner solution essentially deconstructs the top-most layer of the skin and, in turn, triggers an inflammatory response from the skin layers that sit below. Ultimately, since our skin has a natural intuition to heal itself, this leads to the removal of actinic keratoses (translation: sun damage) and the improvement of minor hyperpigmentation, scarring, wrinkles, and elasticity.

“It also improves cell turnover and helps your skin look younger and brighter,” adds Engelman.

How to Prepare for a Jessner Peel

Engelman cautions that if you are aware of any sensitivities to chemical peels, acids, or the ingredient in the Jessner peel, or if you have very sensitive skin, talk with your dermatologist before getting the Jessner peel.

“It is recommended that you avoid UV exposure, antibiotics, and anything that could harm/weaken your skin barrier for two weeks before receiving the peel,” she says. “You should also stop using specific active ingredients including retinol, BHAs/AHAs, and benzoyl peroxide a week before receiving the peel.”

What to Expect During a Jessner Peel

Here’s a look at what actually goes down: “The application of the peel itself only takes a few minutes,” says de Sousa. “First, I’ll thoroughly clean the skin and hydrate it as much as possible. I like to exfoliate with my sonic blade, where molecules of water are being burst by ultrasonic waves and hydration can supplement the skin. This particular technique is my safeguard against the peel solution penetrating too fast, too deep, or in an uneven manner. After skin hydration, a layer of the peel is applied using gauze and swiped around the skin. I allow about two minutes for the penetration of the product, and I observe the skin for any ‘hot spots.’ Typically, we apply two to three layers of the peeling solution and then will apply a corrective agent on top, which can include things like retinol, vitamins, hyaluronic acid, or peptides, depending on our goals for skin and what kind of underlying conditions there are.”

According to de Sousa, the best time of year to fully benefit from Jessner (or similar) peels is when UV radiation is comparatively weak, like late autumn or early spring. As noted, the major complication of this peel is hyperpigmentation, and UV radiation is the main instigator.”

Potential Side Effects

Engelman notes that clients will experience some redness, tightness, and peeling afterward, which is normal and should last about five days. “If the peel is not applied properly, or if you don’t follow post-procedure directions (like avoiding UV rays after treatment) you could end up with hyperpigmentation,” she says.

“The main risks are skin blanching (when peeling solution penetrates too deep in the skin because too many layers are being applied) adds de Sousa.

In other words, only ever go to a licensed professional, and make sure to follow pre- and post-care instructions to a T.

The Cost

According to Engleman, the Jessner peel costs about $75 to $400 depending on where you get the peel, the area to be peeled, and other factors.

Aftercare

“Post-peel, avoid applying water- or oil-based products on the application area for six to eight hours or, preferably, overnight. Water can push the solution deeper into the skin, and oil will neutralize the action of the peel. Sweating (hot yoga, exercising) and extreme temperature exposure should also be avoided for the first 24 hours. During this time, only washing, hydrating, and applying sunscreen are allowed. Around day three, the skin will tighten and start to peel, and you’ll need to add hydration-promoting products into your regimen. Peeling is usually finished by day five, and after that, active ingredients are carefully reintroduced to the skincare regimen,” says de Sousa.

The Final Takeaway

As always, make sure to consult with a board-certified dermatologist or esthetician before deciding on whether a Jessner peel is right for you. Your specific skin type, skincare goals, and any other underlying conditions will dictate your optimal peel and/or treatment plan.

Chemical peel side effects

Chemical peels can improve the skin’s appearance. In this treatment, a chemical solution is applied to the skin, which makes it “blister” and eventually peel off. The new skin is usually smoother and less wrinkled than the old skin.

Chemical peels can be done on the face, neck, or hands. They can be used to:

• Reduce fine lines under the eyes and around the mouth
• Treat wrinkles caused by sun damage and aging
• Improve the appearance of mild scars
• Treat certain types of acne
• Reduce age spots, freckles, and dark patches (melasma) due to pregnancy or taking birth control pills
• Improve the look and feel of skin

Areas of sun damage may improve after chemical peeling.

After a chemical peel, skin is temporarily more sensitive to the sun, so wear sunscreen every day. It should say “broad-spectrum” on the label, meaning it protects against the sun’s UVA and UVB rays. Also, it should be a physical sunscreen and be above SPF 30. Limit your time in the sun, especially between the hours of 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., and wear a wide-brimmed hat.

Who Is a Good Candidate For a Chemical Peel?

Generally, fair-skinned and light-haired patients are better candidates for chemical peels. If you have darker skin, you may also have good results, depending upon the type of problem being treated. But you also may be more likely to have an uneven skin tone after the procedure.

Skin sags, bulges, and more severe wrinkles do not respond well to chemical peels. They may need other kinds of cosmetic surgical procedures, such as laser resurfacing, a facelift, brow lift, eyelid lift, or soft tissue filler (collagen or fat). A dermatologic surgeon can help determine the most appropriate type of treatment for you.

Before You Get a Chemical Peel

Tell your doctor if you have any history of scarring, cold sores that keep coming back, or facial X-rays.

Before you get a chemical peel, your doctor may ask you to stop taking certain drugs and prepare your skin by using other medications, such as Retin-A, Renova, or glycolic acid. The doctor may also prescribe antibiotics or antiviral drugs.

Work with your doctor to determine the depth of your peel. This decision depends upon the condition of your skin and your goals for treatment.

Ask your doctor in advance whether you will need to have someone drive you home after your peel.

How Chemical Peels Are Done

You can get a chemical peel in a doctor’s office or in a surgery center. It’s an outpatient procedure, meaning there’s no overnight stay.

The professional who does your peel will first clean your skin thoroughly. Then they will apply one or more chemical solutions — such as glycolic acid, trichloroacetic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, or carbolic acid (phenol) — to small areas of your skin. That creates a controlled wound, letting new skin take its place.

During a chemical peel, most people feel a burning sensation that lasts about five to ten minutes, followed by a stinging sensation. Putting cool compresses on the skin may ease that stinging. You may need pain medication during or after a deeper peel.

What To Expect After the Chemical Peel

Depending upon the type of chemical peel, a reaction similar to sunburn occurs following the procedure. Peeling usually involves redness followed by scaling that ends within three to seven days. Mild peels may be repeated at one to four-week intervals until you get the look you’re after.

Medium-depth and deep peeling may result in swelling as well as blisters that may break, crust, turn brown, and peel off over a period of seven to 14 days. Medium-depth peels may be repeated in six to 12 months, if necessary.

After treatment, you may need bandages for several days on part or all of the skin that was treated.

You’ll need to avoid the sun for several months after a chemical peel since your new skin will be fragile.

Possible Complications

Some skin types are more likely to develop a temporary or permanent color change in the skin after a chemical peel. Taking birth control pills, subsequent pregnancy, or a family history of brownish discoloration on the face may make that more likely.

There is a low risk of scarring in certain areas of the face. Some people may be more likely to scar. If scarring does happen, it can usually be treated with good results.

For people with a history of herpes outbreaks, there is a small risk of reactivating cold sores. Your doctor can prescribe medication to prevent or treat that.

Chemical Peeling Advantages And Disadvantages

A chemical peel is a mixture of chemicals that forms gel-like consistency. It’s applied to the face in order to smooth the surface of the skin, remove the appearance of fine lines and remove blemishes. There are three types of chemical peels: mild, medium-depth and deep. Each have their advantages and serve different purposes.

What Are the Advantages of a Mild Chemical Peel?

• Chemical peels help to smooth dry skin
• Can help with pigmentation problems
• Controls acne
• Removes blemishes
• Less recovery time
• Helps with mild sun-damage
• Reduces mild blotchiness
• Fresher and younger looking appearance

What Are the Advantages of a Medium-Depth Chemical Peel?

• Thin facial lines are removed or the appearance is less noticeable
• The medium-depth reduces facial birthmarks
• The pigmentation in the skin is improved
• Helps with dry skin and old acne scarring
• Helps with sun-damaged skin
• Improves blotchy skin
• Younger looking overall appearance

What Are the Advantages of a Deep Chemical Peel?

• Ability to remove pre-cancerous growths
• Deeper acne scar emanation
• Long lasting effect
• Eliminates deeper lines on the face??
• Controls acne
• Helps with deep or course wrinkles
• Age spot removal
• Only a single treatment is necessary
• Smoother skin, younger appearance
• Long-term results are very good when the peel is specifically for acne scarring

The advantages of chemical peels are many, and all three help with different issues. The deep chemical peels are reserved for those with the worst types of skin problems, including serious acne, scarring and birthmarks. Some disadvantages of chemical peels need mentioning.

What Are the Disadvantages of a Chemical Peel?

• Excessive peeling normally happens more with the medium-depth peel and particularly with the deep peel
• Stinging sensation when initially applied
• Redness appears. Again, this is particularly so with the deep and medium peels. The light peel normally results in peeling like a sunburn.
• Temporarily may feel a bit of numbness
• Deep chemical peels can cause a crusting or scabbing after the treatment, as the deep dead skin cells are sleuthing off. This is temporary.
• Sensitivity to the sun ? you will need to stay out of the sun for a short time after the peel as your skin is more sensitive
• Costs can also be a disadvantage for some, since the average chemical peel cost $500 for each treatment

While some disadvantages do exist for chemical peels, the advantages do outweigh them particularly for those suffering from severe skin problems, such as acne or acne scarring. Even with the disadvantages, most people that have had them report they would have it again because of the overall improvement of their skin’s surface and the younger fresher look the entire chemical peels bring about. The discomforts often associated with a chemical peel are temporary and subside rather quickly.