What To Know About Chemical Peel Sessions

What To Know About Chemical Peel Sessions

When it comes to rejuvenating the skin, chemical peels are frequently chosen. In order to show the younger, healthier skin underneath, many people opt for chemical peels as a sort of cosmetic treatment. The method is slathering on a chemical solution, leaving it on the skin for several minutes or hours, and then washing it off. Professional grade materials can be used to execute the peel in a medi spa or by a dermatologist.

Today, you can choose from a wide variety of chemical peels, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. You may want to experiment with a few different peels before choosing on one that works best for your skin type and desired results.

Chemical peel is a special procedure that is used to improve the look of your skin by removing its damaged layers. Some peels are invasive and can leave scars, but others are quite superficial and cause no destruction of tissues, as well as there are no side effect for your skin. Read on to learn more on chemical peeling treatment/types of chemical peels.

What To Know About Chemical Peel Sessions

Chemical peels are one of the most effective facial treatments out there. They have been a trending form of skin treatment for quite some time now and if you’ve wanted to know how exactly they can benefit your skin, well guess what, you’re in luck. We got in touch with Dr Monisha Aravind, M.D.DVL, PDFC Aesthetic Dermatologist & co-founder Armoraa Skin, Hair and Laser Clinic to tell us everything we need to know about the treatment. PS. You might wanna take notes or better yet, bookmark this page for future reference.

A big draw of chemical peels is that they can be tailored to suit individual needs. They are broadly classified as:  

• Superficial peels – The main aim of superficial peels is rejuvenation, maintaining skin and remove tan.“They can also be used as party peel —  they don’t cause visible exfoliation and give a subtle, instant glow,” says Dr Monisha. Some of the compounds used are glycolic acid, lactic acid, ferulic acid, pyruvic acid and vitamin C — either alone or in combination. 
• Medium depth peels – Compounds like TCA, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, retinol, phenol are used as medium depth peels for visible exfoliation. They help relieve superficial pigmentations like melasma and freckles,  post-acne marks or post-inflammatory pigmentations, tanning and smooth out uneven skin tone, including fine lines and wrinkles.
• Deep Peels – Depending on the concentration, deep peels can be used to treat hyperpigmentations and wrinkles. TCA, phenol and cosmelan are usually used as deep peels, with a touch of salicylic acid for acne. Deep peels are both corrective and preventive in nature, giving both immediate and long term benefits for the skin.

Risk factors to consider before opting for a chemical peel

It is true that chemical peels have multifold benefits, but their risk factors also have to be taken into consideration. Dr Monisha advises: “Be careful with few active infections like herpes, as chemical peel might lead to spread of the infection. If you have a keloidal tendency, don’t opt for deep peels. Also, post-care has to be followed as specified, if not you might end up in trouble. Bear in mind that your skin has been exfoliated and hence needs extra care.” 

How to prepare your skin for a chemical peel

Going in without any prep for chemical peel sessions can be a huge mistake. Start prepping your skin 2 to 4 weeks ahead of the in-office session. Dr Monisha recommends a proper skin routine — right from your cleanser to night cream. Use a cleanser with salicylic acid or AHA followed by a serum with vitamin C, E, hyaluronic acid and end it with a moisturiser to keep your skin moisture intact.

Sunscreen also plays a major role in your skin prep — practise applying sunscreen two hours prior to stepping outside. As for your nighttime skincare routine, night cream with retinol, glycolic acid, kojic acid, hydroquinone, arbutin, etc. can do wonders. A well-prepped skin will make sure the peel is able to penetrate better and avoid any post-peel pigmentation. 

How to take care of your skin after a chemical peel

In order to reap maximum benefits from your chemical peel session, it’s important to take good care of your skin post the peel. Here are some tips you need to keep in mind:

• Use a gentle face wash; avoid using ones with active ingredients as they are not recommended for post-peel skin. Moisturise often so that the moisture in your skin is maintained everything the moisture and keep any itching, tingling or pulling sensation at bay.
• Your skin will be very sensitive to the sun after getting a peel. Re-apply sunscreen every 2 hours and don’t skip it while indoors as well. Stay away from sun exposure, exercise and sweaty work for a couple of days.
• Do not use hot water or external scrubs on the face and avoid the temptation to peel the skin.
• Avoid products with retinol/retinoids, salicylic acid, glycolic acid for 3 days to 1 week. These agents can exfoliate skin even more and irritate it further, slowing down the healing process. 

How often should you get a chemical peel

The best way to get the most out of chemical peel sessions is by not overdoing or under-doing it. Dr Monisha explains, “Depending on the condition being treated, usually, chemical peels can be done in for 6-8 sessions cycles with 2 weeks gap given between each session. But, when going for deep peels, it’s usually done only once in 6 months or a year. If you’re looking only for maintenance, you can get a peel done once every 2 months,”

As for the pricing, usually, a single peel would cost you around Rs. 2500 and when going for a combination peel, it’s around Rs. 5000. Also, deep peels can vary depending on the peel selected.

Types Of Chemical Peels

The four most common types of chemical peels are AHA peels, BHA peels, TCA peels, and Phenol peels. AHA and BHA peels are classified as light chemical peels, whereas TCA peels are defined as medium depth peels and Phenol peels are labeled as a deep peel.

When it comes to revitalizing the skin, chemical peels are the most common cosmetic treatment in the world of dermatology. Chemical peels are a customizable way to treat a myriad of skin conditions, including acne scars, age spots, discoloration, fine lines and wrinkles, melasma, and even rosacea. Chemical peels are designed to exfoliate the skin and eliminate dead skin cells from the top layer of the skin, which allows for healthier, younger-looking skin. Dr. Michele Green was one of the first dermatologists in NYC to incorporate TCA, Cosmelan peels, Glycolic acid, salicylic acid peels to treat melasma and other disorders of hyperpigmentation in her boutique New York City dermatology practice.

The American Academy of Dermatology specifies three different types of chemical peels. The different types are determined by the strength of the chemical peel, as well as how deeply the layers of skin are affected. The three major classifications of chemical peel are a light or superficial peel, a medium depth peel, and a deep chemical peel. Within those three major classifications are four common types of peels: Alpha Hydroxy acid peels, Beta Hydroxy acid peels, Trichloroacetic Acid Peels (TCA), and Phenol peels.

Chemical Peels contain a tailored chemical solution designed to target specific skin care needs, and range in depth and intensity of treatment. Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Michele Green, in NYC, has over 25 years of experience treating patients with chemical peels, and determines the best type of chemical peel for each patient based on both your skin type and skin care needs. When developing a treatment plan, Dr. Green customizes your skincare routine with a combination of the best cosmetic products and types of chemical peels tailored especially for you. Choosing the correct chemical peel for your skin type and skin condition is the most important aspect to chemical peel treatment. If you’re interested in revitalizing your skin through chemical peels, contact the NYC office of Dr. Michele Green today to learn what are the best options designed for you.

How do chemical peels work?

A chemical peel is a type of skin resurfacing treatment that uses a chemical solution to remove outer layers of dead skin. Through a process of chemical exfoliation, chemical peels can stimulate cell turnover, which in turn unclogs pores and corrects skin discoloration, giving the skin a vibrant glow. The chemical solution is applied to the surface of the skin and targets the top layers of the skin in order to eliminate dead skin cells. This “controlled trauma” to the skin stimulates the natural peeling of the skin, which can improve the texture of the skin for a variety of skin types. Chemical peels rely on a variety of acid types, including glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, and trichloroacetic acid (TCA). The depth and effect of the peel varies depending on the intensity and make-up of the chemical peel.

Chemical peels have been approved by the FDA for decades, and this skincare treatment has actually been around since the 19th century. They are used today to create a customizable skin treatment that can both reduce the signs of aging and revitalize irritated skin with little downtime required. Specifically, chemical peels can be used to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, eliminate the appearance of hyperpigmentation including melasma and age spots, and rid the skin of acne and acne scars. The concentration and active ingredients in the different types of chemical peels can address varying skin conditions for rejuvenation and hydration of the skin.

What types of chemical peels are there?

The types of chemical peel for face are incredibly varied, each type tailored to the needs of the patient. The peels are divided into a few different categories that address the depth of the treatment, light, medium, and deep chemical peels. The strength of the peel is determined both by the skin texture and tone, but by the skin problem that one is trying to address. Melasma and hyperpigmentation require a different type of peel from fine lines and deeper wrinkles. In addition, darker skin tones require more gentle chemical peels than lighter skin types.

Light Chemical Peels

Light chemical peels, or superficial peels, are formulated with mild peeling agents to gently exfoliate the skin. The lightest chemical peels have an exfoliating chemical solution that only affects the top layer of the skin (epidermis).

What are the different types of superficial peels?

When it comes to superficial peels, there are a few common acids that are used. Alpha Hydroxy acid peels are considered the most gentle form of chemical peel, which can help to reduce the appearance of very fine lines, dry skin, minor acne, and mild pigment or uneven skin tone. Beta Hydroxy acid peels have lipid-based chemical solutions that help to control oil production, which can be particularly useful for those with naturally oily skin or who are acne prone.

Jessner’s peels combine lactic acid, salicylic acid, and resorcinol in order to move acids deeper into the layers of the skin. Jessner’s peels are often followed up with the application of retinoid acid. Retinoid acid (retinol) provides a deeper peel penetration, which can help to trigger faster skin healing and new skin growth.

Alpha Hydroxy acid (glycolic acid) Peels

Alpha Hydroxy acids (AHA) refers variety of different acids, including  citric acid (from citrus fruits), lactic acid (from fermented milk), magic acid (from apples) and tartaric acid (from grapes). However, the most popular AHA peel is a glycolic acid peel in order to exfoliate the skin and stimulate collagen production in the body. Glycolic acid, derived from sugar cane, has a very small molecular structure which allows it to penetrate the layers of the skin, and varies in strength to balance active exfoliation with skin sensitivity.

Beta Hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) Peels

Beta Hydroxy acid Peels, or BHA peels, are an excellent option for those hoping to reduce the appearance of blemishes or congested skin. The lipid base of BHA peels can reach farther than many AHA peels, as the solution can penetrate deeper layers of the dermis by attaching to the skin’s natural oils. Salicylic acid, the most common acid in BHA peels, acts as a clear-out for the pores, and has anti-inflammatory characteristics that reduce irritation due to acne breakouts.

Jessner’s Peels

Jessner’s peels can vary by strength depending on the percentages of the acids used. Jessner’s peels can also contain additional acid combinations, such as mandelic acid (from almonds) for anti-inflammatory benefit, phytic acid to treat patients with sensitive skin, or lactic acid to brighten and hydrate the skin. Oftentimes, for patients with rosacea, chemical peels can be tailored with a solution that includes phytic, mandelic, and lactic acids.

Medium Depth Peels

Medium peels vary in terms of chemical solution, but the most common medium depth peel is a Trichloroacetic acid peel.

Trichloroacetic Acid Peels (TCA)

Trichloroacetic acid peels, or TCA peels, are offered in a range of strengths and combinations. TCA can be used in combination with salicylic acid, among others, at a lower percentage within a solution. However, when the TCA percentage exceeds 20%, it is administered solely by a medical professional, such as Dr. Green. TCA peels are an excellent choice for patients who experience pigment irregularities and sun damage, as well as deep wrinkles and acne scars. Additionally, TCA peels can be used to treat pre-cancerous growths on the skin, also known as actinic keratosis.

Deep Peels

Deep peels are designed to penetrate deeper into the layers of the dermis. Deep chemical peels tend to require more recovery time, but they offer long-lasting, dramatic facial rejuvenation.

When considering a deeper peel, patients may also consider laser resurfacing as a means to reinvigorate the skin. Laser resurfacing has become a popular treatment for convenient, safe, and successful skin rejuvenation.

Phenol Peels

Phenol peels use carbolic acid as their peeling agent. Phenol peels have perhaps the strongest chemical peel solution to produce the most dramatic results, and the concentration of carbolic acid can shift or be combined with resorcinol or salicylic acid to wonderful effect. Due to the intensity of the phenol peel, results can be transformative, but in some concentrations a phenol peel can only be administered once in a lifetime. For both safety and consistency of results, a phenol peel should always be administered by a board-certified physician, such as Dr. Green.

What are the side effects of chemical peels?

The side effects of chemical peels are typically temporary and mild, and include burning, dryness, redness, and swelling. After any chemical peel, and particularly if you are administered a deep peel, it is essential to avoid sun exposure and apply sunscreen regularly. Within the first few days post-treatment, you may experience lighter or darker skin tone, though this is temporary. Occasionally, patients experience herpes simplex (cold sore) flare-ups, in which case Dr. Green can prescribe an antiviral medication.

In rare cases, side effects from chemical peels can include scarring, as well as heart, liver or kidney damage. These side effects are more likely to occur when the incorrect chemical peel is administered, which is why it’s vital that a chemical solution be determined by a medical professional, such as Dr. Green.

What kind of chemical peel do I need?

When determining which chemical peel is best for you, Dr. Green considers your skin condition, skin type, and concerns. Ultimately, each individual will have different needs that will lead to the correct customized chemical solution but, in general, certain types of chemical peels are designed to target specific skin conditions.

What chemical peel is best for acne scars?

When it comes to acne, the best option is a superficial peel that has a chemical solution of glycolic acid or light TCA concentration. These acids are designed to unclog pores, exfoliate the skin, and remove the dead skin cells from the epidermis. This peeling procedure is able to get acne breakouts under control, and to clear out pimples and blemishes. BHA peels are also commonly used to treat acne, though this can cause some redness irritation for those with sensitive skin.

When it comes to acne scars, a AHA or TCA peel is actually able to lighten the appearance of blemish scarring when new skin is formed. Dr. Green often recommends a superficial peel in combination with her MGSkinLabs acne products, which can help to improve the appearance of acne and acne scarring  further after chemical peel treatment.

What type of chemical peel is best for wrinkles?

When it comes to reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, a Jessner’s peel, Mandelic chemical peel, and Retinol chemical peel are all excellent options. a Jessner’s peel is an effective choice for those hoping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, melasma, hyperpigmentation, and even acne scares when used as a superficial peel. Mandelic acid is a common anti-aging peeling agent, as it encourages new skin growth and can strengthen collagen in the skin to provide smoother, firmer skin. Retinol is a very popular skin care ingredient, as its a form of vitamin A that encourages the development of new skin cells. Retinol is able to reach deeper layers of the skin in order to trigger renewed skin cell growth, and it can hydrate and refresh almost any complexion.

What type of chemical peel should I get for hyperpigmentation?

The cosmelan peel is Dr. Green’s recommendation for reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation. A cosmelan peel is designed to target dark marks from acne, acne scars, melasma, and wide-spread hyperpigmentation, healing the skin and evening out skin tone. The cosmelan peel can be used for all skin types and skin tones, and is able to reduce issues of hyperpigmentation through a combination of in-office application and at-home treatment. In order to achieve optimal results, patients must avoid sun exposure and use a high SPF sunscreen post-procedure.

Another option for treating hyperpigmentation is a Vi Peel. A Vi Peel is a distinctive chemical peel that uses a chemical solution of salicylic acid, Vitamin C, TCA, and retinoid acid. A Vi peel can sun damage, melasma, acne scars, and other pigmentation and discoloration of the face. As the Vi peel addresses the skin texture, it is also able to tighten pores and reduce the appearance of fine lines, acne, and surface irregularities. Like many other chemical peels, the Vi peel can be offered in combination with laser skin resurfacing, Botox, and Juvederm.

If you’ve got rosacea, then you likely know that one of the last things you should do when it comes to skin care is overexfoliate. Since rosacea is a chronic inflammatory condition that results in a compromised skin barrier, it makes sense to want to avoid exfoliation all together – especially chemical peels – at all costs.

However, chemical peels in a clinic can be perfectly safe for those with rosacea (of course, depending on your specific condition, as everyone’s manifests differently). In fact, a gentler peel can have really great benefits for managing the condition along with other treatments – but only in a professional setting with someone who understands the complexities of rosacea.

We spoke with Spirithoula Koukoufikis, Skinfluencer skin clinic’s senior medical aesthetician to find out exactly how you can get the benefits of a chemical peel for rosacea without causing any adverse effects on your condition.

What Exactly Is Rosacea?

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition, affecting one in 10 people in the UK, that presents in a number of ways. There are various “types” of rosacea, including erythematotelangiectatic rosacea (redness), papulopustular rosacea (acne rosacea), phymatous rosacea (thickening of the skin), and ocular rosacea (symptoms of the eyes). Each of the rosacea types can come in varying degrees of severity, and people can experience more than one. Symptoms can include facial redness and flushing, pimples and bumps, visible blood vessels, sensitivity, sore eyelids, and a burning or stinging feeling.

What Is a Chemical Peel?

A professional chemical peel is a treatment done at a clinic (not at home) in which a practitioner will apply a solution made up of different types of acids in various pH levels to your face. Peels come in three depths – superficial, medium, and deep – each with varying outcomes and aftercare instruction. The aim of a chemical peel is to deeply exfoliate the skin and improve the overall skin texture, tone, and appearance, depending on your goals. It’s important to visit a trained professional who can take into account your skin type and skin tone to find a treatment plan best suited to your individual needs.

What Professional Peels Work Well For Someone With Rosacea?

When it comes to chemical peels for rosacea, Koukoufikis explains that it’s not so much “which acid but more a case of the pH of the acid peel chosen”. For a condition like rosacea, only a superficial peel “that does not have an excessively low pH” should be used, as “you only want to remove the surface of the dead skin, before proceeding with laser treatments to manage and improve the appearance of the condition.”

Benefits of Chemical Peels For Rosacea

When it comes to rosacea, chemical peels can help manage redness and breakouts, and reduce inflammation. However, Koukoufikis says they should be used as part of a bigger-picture treatment plan. “I really believe they should only be used to prep the skin before you tackle the rosacea with laser-based treatments.”

How Often Can Someone With Rosacea Get Chemical Peels?

Koukoufikis says you should only have a peel every four to eight weeks, but for a laser treatment, she recommends every four to six weeks because “the vascular network is so dense and needs to be targeted in a specific way.” Once this course has been completed, you’ll likely only need maintenance treatments once or twice a year.

What to Avoid When It Comes to Chemical Peels and Rosacea

Avoid over-resurfacing the skin. “Remember, in the case of rosacea, the skin’s surface is already compromised,” Koukoufikis says. “By using acid peels too often, the skin is unable to heal and repair. In fact, it is highly likely that you will just create more inflammation and enhance the skin’s sensitivity, which will lead to itching. The skin won’t be able to heal fast enough, and this could lead to other skin conditions such as hyperpigmentation and acne, to name but two.”

What Other Treatments Can Be Used With Chemical Peels For Rosacea?

As Koukoufikis mentioned, she believes the best treatments for rosacea are peels combined with lasers. “Laser treatments that are specifically designed to target vascularity are great for rosacea. Over the years, rosacea will bring more vascularity to the surface of the skin, resulting in the appearance of thread veins or an overall blush/redness, depending on what’s happening beneath the skin,” she says. “You can never take away rosacea, you can only treat it so the appearance of it is improved. The gold-standard treatment protocol for rosacea is laser, and with its advanced technology, Cutera’s Excel V+ is the current industry leader. Excel V+ has been designed to target the excess haemoglobin that manifests as red veins or blushing.”

For that reason, Koukoufikis always recommends a course of laser treatments to “chip away at that dense vascular network, which will improve the overall tone and texture of the skin.” Of course, all of this needs to be in addition to proper skin care at home, curated with you and for you by a skin specialist.

“Rosacea is a complicated skin condition, and really you need a professional to assess and analyse the skin, determine the severity of the rosacea, and prescribe a programme that includes treatments and products to ensure you get the best possible outcome,” Koukoufikis adds.

Final Thoughts on Chemical Peels and Rosacea

In-clinic acid peels can have a wonderful outcome on those with rosacea but are typically best when used in conjunction with other treatments. “They should only be used to prep the skin before you tackle the rosacea with laser-based treatments,” Koukoufikis says.

Chemical Peeling Treatment

A chemical peel is solution applied to the face to remove dead skin cells and stimulate the growth of new cells. The aim is to improve the appearance of the skin – for example, by reducing age spots and evening out skin tone. There are 3 types of peels, called superficial, medium and deep.

A chemical peel is solution applied to the face to remove dead skin cells and stimulate the growth of new cells.

The aim is to improve the appearance of the skin – for example, by reducing age spots and evening out skin tone.

There are 3 types of peels, called superficial, medium and deep.

Superficial and medium peels are usually safe, as long as they’re done correctly. These type of peels are not permanent and they need to be repeated.

Deeper peels are more risky. They’re longer-lasting and do not usually need to be repeated.

In the UK, chemical peels cost about £60 to £100 for mild peels. Deeper peels may cost more than £500.

What to think about before you have chemical peels

If you’re thinking about having chemical peels, be clear about why you want them.

Choosing a practitioner

Having a chemical peel is usually safe if it’s done by an experienced and suitably qualified practitioner.

Check the person doing your chemical peel is on a register to show they meet set standards in training, skill and insurance.

Avoid practitioners who have only completed a short training course.

Book a consultation with the practitioner before you have the procedure.

Ask about:

• their experience and qualifications
• the type of chemical peel they would recommend for you and why
• any risks or possible side effects
• what aftercare they provide
• what will happen if things go wrong
• what insurance cover they have

Different types of chemical peels

Superficial peels

• skin cells are removed from the top layer of skin (epidermis)
• the solution is applied to the skin and left on for a few minutes
• your skin may feel tight for a couple of hours afterwards
• regular treatment is needed to maintain the effects

Medium peels

• skin cells are removed from the top and middle layers of skin
• the solution is applied and left on for a few minutes
• you may feel burning or stinging when it’s on your face
• your skin may go brown or red for a few days afterwards
• it can take up to 6 weeks for your skin to return to normal
• treatment is needed every 6 to 12 months to maintain the effects

Deep peels

• affect the deeper layers of skin
• a local anaesthetic and sedative may be needed to numb any pain
• the solution is applied to the face and can be left on for 30 minutes or more
• your heart and blood pressure need to be watched because the chemical used (phenol) can affect your heart and kidneys
• you’ll have some peeling, redness and discomfort for a few days
• swelling can last up to 2 weeks, and redness can last up to 3 months
• often lightens the skin so it’s not really suitable for darker skin
• it has long-lasting effects so does not usually need to be repeated

Risks

Possible risks of chemical peels include:

• darkening or lightening of the skin – this can be permanent
• cold sores returning if you’ve had them before
• scarring or an infection – although this is rare

Your skin will be more sensitive to the sun as it heals, so you need to use sunscreen for at least a month after treatment.

Your practitioner should give you advice about how to reduce your risk of getting side effects and complications.